I was rereading an essay that Aki and I (mostly Aki, as this one has just not clicked for me and I have added not nearly enough) have been writing on balancing tastes and had an idea. The idea was to take another look at apple noodles. What evolved is pretty crazy and tasty to boot. We poached the apple noodles in a broth made from raisins, ginger, and saffron. The noodles are a spot-on image of real egg noodles. We served them chilled with a Dungeness crab salad.