I have been asked why we serve cold butter. People note it is hard to spread and more difficult to cut. I still serve cold butter despite their foolproof discourse on room temperature butter and its benefits. Am I foolhardy—many say yes—for not listening to reason? Actually, I just really like warm bread. Soft butter spread on warm bread melts and turns greasy, while cold butter melts a little, softens some, and part retains its rich, creamy, tangy natural quality, which I can bite through rather than allowing my teeth to slide through it. That is my story, and I am sticking to it.
A brief side note: with regards to salt and butter, we serve fleur de sel and sel gris on the side. Diners enjoy playing with ratios of salt, butter, and bread. They control the sensations; we provide the ingredients.
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